The first tube flies came around the year 1945 in Scotland. They were tied on turkey wing feather quills that were later replaced by plastic tubes, the ones used for medical surgery. The possibility of tying the materials in a rounded shape and covering a hollow tube allows us to achieve exact propo View more...The first tube flies came around the year 1945 in Scotland. They were tied on turkey wing feather quills that were later replaced by plastic tubes, the ones used for medical surgery. The possibility of tying the materials in a rounded shape and covering a hollow tube allows us to achieve exact proportions without putting too much weight on the fly, enabling the fly to move naturally underwater. Also, we can choose to use different hooks on the same fly, thus making small changes in weight and in the way the fly will swim. There is no doubt that tube flies have a special lure that we cannot yet define. The truth is that when regular flies fail, a tube fly enables us to improve our performance.Tube patterns range from simple models to elegant ones like the Austral Sunrise, the one we are about to tie; I designed it to fish Tierra del Fuego´s Río Grande River on very bright luminous days. The golden pheasant crests give the fly a special shape, brightness and transparency that cannot be achieved with synthetic materials. This is why I use them in many of my flies, as you will see.I hope the Austral Sunrise inspires you to explore new shapes in your own flies.
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List of materials
MaterialsTube: plastic, transparent, ½ inch long.Thread: 6/0 or 8/0, fire orange.Body: pearled E-Z Body, or pearled or golden mylar tube.Throat: yellow bucktail and golden pheasant crest.Wing: black bucktail, orange; red or magenta Flashabou, and golden pheasant crests.Cheeks: jungle cock or a similar substitute.
Steps
Step 1
Before placing the tube on the vise, we should thread some E-Z body or mylar tube; a space should be left at the front and back of the fly. Place the tube on the vise and firmly tie the front side of the body without compressing the tube, tie a knot and trim the thread. Cement the knot with cyanoacrylate, and be careful not to spread it on the body.
Step 2
Carefully spread the body of the fly backwards so that it is evenly placed on the tube, without any wrinkles. Then, it should be tied with the same thread that we used for the head. Tie a knot and cement it. If we wish to make an enduring body we can apply an extra thin layer of epoxy. In this case, we will have to wait some hours to finish the fly, making sure the epoxy is completely dry. Bear in mind that even 5-minute epoxy takes hours to totally dry (we can tell when because it will no longe View more...Carefully spread the body of the fly backwards so that it is evenly placed on the tube, without any wrinkles. Then, it should be tied with the same thread that we used for the head. Tie a knot and cement it. If we wish to make an enduring body we can apply an extra thin layer of epoxy. In this case, we will have to wait some hours to finish the fly, making sure the epoxy is completely dry. Bear in mind that even 5-minute epoxy takes hours to totally dry (we can tell when because it will no longer be sticky when touched). If we keep tying the fly, we will only ruin the body´s brightness. Plus, it is important that the epoxy layer is really thin, otherwise we would be adding unnecessary weight to the fly and making it move oddly underwater.
Step 3
Choose a strap of yellow bucktail, even it out and tie it at the lower side of the fly trying not to overhang too much the back of the tube. We should avoid using too much hair, so that the fly has transparency and it swims correctly. Over the bucktail we should tie a pheasant crest, a bit shorter than its regular length. Then, we should tie it where the crest quill is broader and flat, the same place where the bright fibers end and the dim ones from the crest begin. View more...Choose a strap of yellow bucktail, even it out and tie it at the lower side of the fly trying not to overhang too much the back of the tube. We should avoid using too much hair, so that the fly has transparency and it swims correctly. Over the bucktail we should tie a pheasant crest, a bit shorter than its regular length. Then, we should tie it where the crest quill is broader and flat, the same place where the bright fibers end and the dim ones from the crest begin.
Step 4
In a similar way, we should tie a black bucktail strap, with the same length as the yellow one. Over it, tie a golden pheasant crest longer than the bucktail strap.
Step 5
Tie another black bucktail strap, longer than the other one; and over it, a pheasant crest even longer than the strap. As we can see, the crests –with its natural curve and transparency- give a very interesting and attractive effect.
Step 6
Even out and tie an orange bucktail strap, longer than the crest that lies over the black strap. On top of this strap, tie around 4 red/magenta flashabou strips, cutting them a bit longer than the strap.
Step 7
Over the flashabou strips we should tie the last golden pheasant crest, making sure it reaches the end of the orange strap. The flashabou straps must overhang a little.
Step 8
Carefully place the jungle cock (or similar) cheeks and finish the conic head matching the width of the fly at its base/shoulder. To finish the head, apply another thin layer of epoxy or good quality varnish/lacquer.
